What everyone ought to know about ecotourism in Costa Rica

Ligia on June 26, 2018

Is “ecotourism” or “sustainable tourism” just another buzzword??  Does every destination in Costa Rica do ecotourism?

In 2017, the World Tourism Board (UNWTO) celebrated the “International Year of Sustainable Tourism for Development”  #IY2017.

Also, the international campaign  “Travel, Enjoy and Respect” promoted actions that should be taken by travelers around the globe. The  UNWTO did this in order to walk closer together to achieve the sustainable goals for the 2030 agenda of the UN.

The travel industry in Costa Rica is one of the main generators of employment and economic activity in the country.

According to the Tourism Board of Costa Rica, statistics informed that in 2017, tourism represented $3,864,100 (million) of revenue to the country—even more than bananas and coffee.

Costa Rica has around 2.959.869 tourists each year. From that number, 75% come to the country to do ecotourism. (Plan Nacional de desarrollo, ICT)

All those numbers will help us to understand the whole context and relation of tourism for Costa Rica.

Some people will skip those numbers, but go back and read them again!    

I will be happy if you remember the importance of tourism in the country.

Table of Contents:

 A brief history of ecotourism in Costa Rica

Costa Rica has not always been the nice and green dude that proclaims peace to the world.

We created our National Park system back in 1970 and from there protected 25% of the territory. Before that, we had cattle farms, used pesticides in our soils without control, and hunting animals in our forests was a normal practice.

At that time, we didn’t understand the potential that protecting nature would bring more benefits to the country.

After the creation of the National Parks and the increase of visitors per year.  Costa Rica started to gain popularity as the green, peaceful ecotouristic destination in Central America.

Our feelings as locals that make a living from tourism

We love tourism! However, we are not blind to the negative effects that tourism can bring to nature and our communities.

I know people want the luxurious vacation in paradise beach—relaxing under the sun with a cocktail.

My friend who went to the United States said that 60% of the people only remembered a few spots from Costa Rica: Cocos, Jaco, and Manuel Antonio and the forest … ahh yea the forest Monteverde.

We have worked in big hotel chains and traveled Costa Rica on a big bus with 60 tourists to go to the main tourist destinations. Also got tips, met wonderful people from different cultures, and enjoyed all of that touristy stuff, all-inclusive style offers.

We understand if you like fancy! Who doesn’t?

What we don’t like is when we see the other side of the coin.

So we want to challenge you to go deeper into our reality and understand that the way you perceive a country and how you travel in that country affects the economy and the environment.

The video here was a huge an eye-opener for Costa Ricans and for the international community. It shows that even though we do ecotourism, not all Costa Rica’s destinations have worked under those principles. 

Please take the time to watch the video and understand the model of tourism that we want for our country:

Three concepts, one solution

Now we want to talk, and if you are not familiar with these concepts, at least you can grasp the idea and take it into consideration when you travel.

You may think these are buzzwords that companies that are promoting themselves as green use to attract costumers. Don’t feel bad, sometimes we did. Sometimes it may seem like something that everyone is saying to be cool. But these ideas are still important.

We understand that is our responsibility to train ourselves and learn how to live under these principles. Of course, we are not perfect about it and we have also been guilty of being part of the bad practices as well.

BUT the main goal is to apply them when we travel.

  1. Rural Tourism: 

    From the three concepts, this one has been developed and used as a model that the government has tried to support in Costa Rica. Defined as:  “Rural tourism focuses on actively participating in a rural lifestyle. It can be a variant of ecotourism. Many rural villages can facilitate tourism because many villagers are hospitable and eager to welcome (and sometimes even host) visitors. ” (Wikipedia, 2009)

  2. Ecotourism:

    Ecotourism is now defined as “responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment, sustains the well-being of the local people, and involves interpretation and education.” (TIES*, 2015) Education is meant to be inclusive of both staff and guests.

    *The International Ecotourism Society

  3. Sustainable Tourism:

 This is the most recent term and can be defined as: “Tourism that takes full account of its current and future economic, social and environmental impacts, addressing the needs of visitors, the industry, the environment and host communities.” (UNWTO, 2017)

There are many definitions and they can be similar to each other, but the thing to understand is that looking for accommodation or tours that follow these concepts is a large part of being a responsible traveler.

And the solution??? The solution has become when you are aware that you can decide to be a responsible traveler and take action on your trips. 

In the end, that is the goal and the solution to minimize the negative effects of tourism in the world.

What motivated us to create this blog?

We really feel passionate about this stuff!

We believe in a better way to travel using best practices. This understanding of minimizing the negative effects of traveling requires more commitment.

If you have visited Costa Rica, you will agree that Costa Rica is beautiful.

But for those of us who live here, Costa Rica is so much more than the sun and beautiful beaches. For us, there is a culture full of people who are trying to keep the traditions, there are communities protecting the environments, and there are also problems that need to be solved.

So our goal is to be the voice of projects and places that maybe you won’t even know that they exist if is not through this platform. We also want to be part of the support of those who already have their hands in the digital world.

We want to share a more authentic Costa Rica and support those projects by creating content that features them.

What motivates us is to connect you that are reading or planning to come to this country to have a lifetime experience with our people, with our nature.

Even if you are not coming to Costa Rica right now, you can learn something and make similar actions in your travels in your own country or abroad.

Finally, we all together are helping to create a more sustainable way to travel, not as something only theoretical but also in action.

References

  • Dirección de Planeamiento y Desarrollo, Instituto Costarricense de Turismo. “PLAN NACIONAL DE DESARROLLO TURÍSTICO DE COSTA RICA 2017 – 2021.” San José, Costa Rica, Apr. 2017.
  • Music, Charlene and Peter Jordan, directors. The Goose with the Golden Eggs: Tourism on Costa Rica�s Pacific Coast – Educational Edition. YouTube, www.boundlessmedia.org *

*Note: This Video Was Commissioned by the Center for Responsible Travel (CREST) and Foundation Corcovado, 22 May 2017. This educational video exanimates the impacts of large-scale resort and vacation home developments along Costa Rica.

  • UNWTO, UNEP. “Sustainable Development of Tourism.” Ecotourism and Protected Areas | Sustainable Development of Tourism, Making Tourism More Sustainable – A Guide for Policy Makers, 2005, sdt.unwto.org/content/about-us-5.
  •  What Is Ecotourism? The International Ecotourism Society (TIES), 2018, www.ecotourism.org/what-is-ecotourism. The website didn´t mention an author and date of publication of this article.

How to drive to Barva volcano without getting lost

Ligia on May 18, 2018

Facts about Barva Volcano¹

  • Area: 51000 ha .Around 126023.74 acres. This is the total extension of the National Park Braulio Carrillo)
  • Altitude: 2906 meters ( Around 9534 Feet Above Sea Level)
  • Type of ecosystem:  Rainforest, Wet forest, and cloud forest
  • Dry season: January until April
  • Conservation Category: National Park
  • Wildlife: Birds, amphibians like the endemic toad Bufo Holdridgei, Baird´s Tapir and Jaguars and Pumas.

Why isn’t this Volcano as popular as Poas and Irazu?

When I was in college, we took a class called: Geography of Costa Rica and we studied about Poás, Barva and Irazú volcanoes. Surprisingly, since that class, I learned that this volcano has the same type of forest and is the same distance from the Central Valley as the other two volcanos, but it gets way fewer visitors per year. The main reason is the access to the park is way more difficult than the other two volcanoes. To put in two words, the route is Narrow and Steep. 

You will need a SUV or a 4WD car, especially if you are going during the rainy season, no doubt.
The National Park administration is doing their best to improve the route.  But for now, the reality is that people have 3 main options to get there:

  1. By car, you can only access the volcano in a SUV or 4WD.
  2. Leave your car 3 kilometers before the entrance and walk to the main entrance.
  3. To get there by bus, you will have to walk around 8 kilometers to the entrance.

Another factor is that the park hasn’t been as promoted as much as the other two, so mainly locals visit the park during the weekends. I read on a couple of blogs that some tourists got there during a weekday and even the rangers were surprised by the visit.

In one sense, this is good because it makes the area quieter for birdwatchers and photographers and good for hikers since the access requires more effort. It’s ideal for people who are looking for a forest area similar to the Poas/Irazu volcanoes but without the masses of tourists!

A good day of hiking (Voting day, lagoons and the quetzal)

I think we were the first ones voting that day…

…Easter Sunday in Costa Rica is crowded everywhere, but Easter Sunday also happened at the same time as the 2nd round of presidential elections (one of the most polemical one that the country had had). We really want to escape from the crowds and our devices and wait until later to know what happened.

We couldn’t go far because we had to vote, so our friend Julio (who is from Heredia) recommended Barva Volcano as a close option to visit from the central valley—and a less explored one. Driving there can be confusing, but fortunately, we had Julio with us to guide us. We got there and there were a few cars, cyclists, and hikers enjoying a beautiful sunny summer day. (This is important because I am sure our experience will be totally different if we come in rainy season).

The ranger was extremely nice and gave instructions to our friend Brian in English. He explained to us also about the camera system that they have in the National Park to register nocturnal animals like the pumas (we still haven’t seen him, but one day!), but he was clear that mainly we will be able to see birds and squirrels.

And that was Ok with us! We were more interested to see the lagoons and enjoy the forest. It’s a whole different vibe to be in the cloud forest in dry season. I was really into paying attention to details in the trees, like hummingbird nests, epiphytes plants and the regeneration of the forest. We decided to do the short trail up to the Barva lagoon and the viewpoint and then the Copey lagoon trail.

Laguna Barva and Viewpoint

After less than a mile walk, you will see an old crater that now is a lagoon. It’s a dark green color that actually matches with the rest of the surrounding nature. There’s not much infrastructure here, just a deck to take pictures, but it was alright.

Then we hiked to the viewpoint where you can see the crater and a beautiful view of the surrounding areas of the volcano and you feel that you are above the clouds. We had an insane contrast of colors for pictures from the green of the trees, the white of the clouds and the blue sky. So cool!


Laguna Copey

We headed back to the trail and went to the left, following the Copey trail. This trail is in less shape than the other one, mainly because a lot of trees have fallen after the last rainy season, so fewer people visit it.

This trail is muddier and there are a lot of tree branches. And when you get to the lagoon, at least for us, the platform to take pictures had a huge tree that had fallen on it. So very natural!

The lagoon is smaller than the other one. It’s a very mystic atmosphere with all these trees that fell and are decomposing. The color of the water is kind of dark/black, giving the impression of not much lives there.

We took some pictures and had our snack time on top of the fallen trees. By the time that we were hiking back, the sunny bright day was transformed by the clouds in the mystical cloud forest that we are used to.

We had the trail to ourselves because most of the visitors had gone. I kept walking by myself meditating and enjoying my solo time in nature.

To finish, as usual, Rodrigo and the others saw something cool that I missed: THE QUETZAL!!! That is very common to see in this type of forest but usually from February to April. It was the highlight for Rodrigo.

Trails:

You will need at least 2 hours to do one of the trails. We did 2 trails and it took us around 4 hours. (Wikiloc)

“Cacho de Venado” Trail: Special for a short hike and Bird watching.

Distance: 1890 meters (Approximately 1,5 miles)
Walking Distance: 1 hour 40 minutes round trip

  • Vara Blanca Lookout Trail: Excellent Panorama to take pictures.

Distance: 900 meters from the main path (Approximately A half mile)
Walking Distance: 50 minutes round trip

  • Barva Volcano Crater – Lagoon Trail: A panoramic lookout of part of a park and good for bird watching.

Distance: 3 Kilometers (Approximately  1.8 miles)
Walking Distance: 2 hours round trip

  • Copey Lagoon Trail: Attractive trail for serious hikers

Distance: 5 Kilometers (Approximately  3 miles)
Walking Distance: 3 hours round trip

Recommendations

  • Clothes: Hiking boots that you can get dirty, umbrella or rain jacket, snacks, water or camelback.
  • The high altitude is a factor to keep in consideration while hiking, especially at the beginning of the activity. If you’re coming from sea level, you might feel short of breath and even a light-headed.
  • As with many places in Costa Rica, it is better to go early to observe more wildlife and avoid the rain that usually takes place in the afternoon. Also hiking in silence will give you a better opportunity to be surprised by an animal and observe wildlife!
  • If you finish early and have some extra time, with the same ticket entrance, you can go to Braulio Carrillo National Park by the Quebrada Gonzalez side. That is located on the San José – Puerto Limón highway, 13 kilometers (around 8 miles) after the Zurqui tunnel.
  • Don’t leave leftover food in the forest because that can affect the behavior and the diet of the wildlife.
  • Always walk on the trails unless you want to say hello to the Fer- de- lance or similar vipers.

Important Information²

Facebook: Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo Sector Volcán Barva.
You can ask any questions here. They are super helpful.
Entrance Fee: 
– Nationals and residents ₡ 1,000 adults, ₡ 500 children.
– Foreigners: $ 12 adults, $ 5 children.
Camping area: You might read on the web that you can camp there. However, we asked the National Park staff and they said that is closed indefinitely. So it’s better to ask the Facebook page first to make sure.

How to get there? … without getting lost

Distance from San José: 22 kilometers (Around 14 miles)

By bus:
Information from National Park – Facebook Page 
Bus From Heredia to Paso Llano (Porrosatí). From the last bus stop, you will have to walk 8 kilometers (5 miles on a steep route).

MONDAY THROUGH FRIDAY:
From Heredia 5:25 am – 6:20am – 12:00 md – 4:00 pm
From Barva 6:15am – 7:10 – 1:00pm – 5:00pm

SATURDAY
From Heredia 6:40 am – 11:00 am – 4:00 pm
From Barva 7:40am – 12:35pm – 5:10pm

SUNDAY
From Heredia: 6:45 am – 11:00 am – 4:00 pm
From Barva: 7:40am – 1:00 pm -5:20pm

By car: 
The best way for getting to Barva Volcano National Park is by stopping at downtown Heredia first.

  • Heredia is the province where this national park is located. Usually to  it takes 25 minutes to get there from downtown San Jose (during a day when there is not much traffic, otherwise it can take 45 minutes in a busy day).
  • As soon you get to downtown Heredia, our first suggestion would be to use Google maps or even Waze app for driving up to the entrance of this national park. So these two apps are the ones that we recommend…
  • From Heredia, you take the route to Barva, and then you will pass around San José de la Montaña, Paso Llano and Sacramento until the entrance of the national park. There are a few signs on the way up to the volcano.

Barva Volcano is for cloud forest lovers that are interested in nature, plants, and hiking. It’s harder to get there, but it has a lot to offer for hikers and for people who are looking to an option closer to San José with fewer people and still supporting a conservation area that gets less attention than others.

References:

  1. Various. (2004). Editor (Ed. San Marcos), Guía de Parques Nacionales. (2 ed., Vol.1.)
  2. Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo Sector Volcán Barva. Q & A conversation with staff from National Park (personal communication, May 06th , 2018).

Rio Celeste: A waterfall and its light blue waters

Ligia on May 8, 2018

This. Waterfall. is. light blue

We have visited the Rio Celeste waterfall several times. One time we went there with no luck to see the stunning color.

But this time was one of the nicest because of the time of the year (February). The color that you can see is like the pictures. LIGHT BLUE

General Information :

First of all, here’s some general information about the place that we have researched and compiled for a better understanding of this tourist attraction:

  • Area: 18,402 ha (Around 45,472 acres. Included Protection Area Tenorio)
  • Altitude: 700 – 1516 ( Around 2296 – 4973 Feet Above Sea Level)
  • Type of ecosystem:  wet forest, rainforest
  • Dry season: January until April
  • Conservation Category: National Park
  • Wildlife:  Pacas, Crested Guans (Rio Celeste is an excellent spot for birdwatching)

A little of the history

Rio Celeste waterfall is part of Tenorio Volcano conservation area. The Tenorio Volcano has been dormant for thousands of years.
So, in the tradition of the indigenous Corobicí (a group that has disappeared) and Malekus peoples, several of the rivers and lakes that flow from Tenorio are considered sacred sites.
The Malekus live on the plains of Guatuso. They consider this “big house,” stretching to the south of Lake Nicaragua, to be the home of gods, with each god controlling a strip of land between rivers. The sacred sites are now protected areas. 1

Personally, when I am in the forest, I get immersed in my thoughts and I just picture our ancestors walking in the forest, exploring new territories and finding a waterfall like Rio Celeste!!! WAOOO! What a moment!!!

Our hiking experience

Brian, and Morgan from Boston plus Rodrigo and I spent the night in La Fortuna. In the morning, we left around 6:00 am and got the Rio Celeste entrance around 8:00 am.

When we got there we had a quick chat with the guard of the restaurant outside of the entrance of the National Park. He told us about the series of earthquakes that happened in January and the repercussion on the color of the water and tourism on the area.

Fortunately, at the entrance, they told us that the river was blue. So we were ready and excited to see the waterfall. We started hiking, and maybe one kilometer later, Rodrigo saw a small snake. A lot of curious tourists came by and we definitely noticed a lot of people walking on the trail.

We had a very rough rainy season last year, and you can see a lot of trees that have fallen and the forest regenerating itself. However, the trail called “Los misterios de Tenorio” was in perfect shape.

Getting to the Waterfall

First, we went to the trail that has a lot of stairs to see the waterfall. The weather was really nice—not too sunny not too cloudy.

We took as many pictures as we could. And I reaized that nothing makes me happier than seeing the faces of admiration when the tourists see the waterfall.

ViewPoint

Later, we continued walking up to the “Mirador” after having some snacks. There were a lot of people going up and the trails get muddy even though it was the dry season. But it wasn’t too bad. Well… Rodrigo did fall and cover his butt with mud. If you’re visiting Rio Celeste in the rainy season, it will be impossible stay clean by the end of the day. But hey, it won’t be fun if you don’t get muddy.

There were no clouds, so we were able to see the Tenorio Volcano from the viewpoint. After this part, you start going down on the trail.

“Laguna Azul”

This area is nice because the river has this color and you see the contrast of the green vegetation surrounding it. It is like a fairytale landscape.

“Borbollones”

Following the trail, you will get to this section, where you see the river bubbles due to the sulfur and the temperature of the water is warm. In this part, there is a strong smell like a rotten egg.

“Teñideros”

Here is where the magic happens. Here is where Rio Buena Vista (Good View River) and Rio Quebrada Agria (Sour River) combine together and the color of the water changes drastically. The water goes down for 14 kilometers more.

According to an article from the University of Costa Rica, the scientific team collected a water sample from here and took it to a lab. They noticed that the color of the water was only in the river—in the tubes, the water became transparent again.

As a result of this investigation, they discovered that the light blue color we see in the waters of the river is not a chemical phenomenon, but an optical one. That is to say that the celestial blue color is not produced by a chemical that colors the water, but rather it is a perception of the human eye because of the way the water disperses the sunlight.

At the end of the trail, after we’d taken some videos, Morgan and I had to run because we really needed to use the restroom. Plus, we were starving, so we did that trail in like 30 minutes. haha. The good thing is that while we waited for the guys, I had the chance to interview Adriana Chavarria, one of the rangers at the national park.

In the next section, I’ve written common questions about visiting Rio Celeste. Some were answered by Adriana when we talked that day, other by experience and other as part of the research. Hope you find these useful!

Video:

Common questions about your visit to Rio Celeste

1. Trails: I’ve heard this hike is ‘intense’—does that mean lots of hills and elevation changes? Or just ‘careful’ stepping? Is it physically difficult? 

Everything depends on what your health conditions are. A few years ago, when I wasn’t hiking as much, I found this hike pretty exhausting. Especially in the rainy season because the mud and the rocks are pretty slippery. There is an elevation change but it is a slow progression up. I wouldn’t say it’s “intense,” but it will be challenging for some.

You don’t need to be an athletic person to see the waterfall. Some people see it from the top of the stairs and skip the rest of the trail. You can do the trail at your own pace and take plenty of rest breaks.

The trail round trip is 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) and takes between 3 – 4 hours. The trail is not handicap friendly.

2. Q: How long is the hike to the waterfall?

We did this backward because we went first to the waterfall and then to the farthest point. So Adriana recommended that next time, we go first to Teñideros and leave the waterfall on the way back as the reward after the long hike.

If you are just interested to go to the waterfall, it will take 1.5 kilometers to get there ( Almost a mile + 250 steps). Depending on the speed, it takes around an hour to get just to the waterfall.

3. Q: Clothes: Footwear? Is it hot?

The weather is humid, and it’s in the rainforest, so it rains a lot. Dry-fit clothes will be best.  During the dry season, you can use hiking shoes that you don’t mind getting muddy. They also rent out rubber boots at the entrance, although some people find them very slippery.

I saw some people with Keen sandals or Chacos. I guess they didn’t mind the mud, the rocks, and the tree branches. Just use what makes you walk more freely. Please DO NOT use flip-flops or white shoes. We saw many people walking barefoot after they broke their flip-flops.

4. Q: Swimming: I have seen videos of people swimming in the waterfall. Can you swim there?

Well, unfortunately not anymore. Swimming inside the National Park is forbidden.

The reason was some tourist drowned because the current was so strong, so the park decided to avoid more accidents.

However, Adriana explained to us about a spot where people go to swim before the main entrance of the park—around 3 kilometers away. Under the bridge is the Catira River, which has the same color and you can swim there carefully, especially in the rainy season.

5. Q: Parking lot: Is there any place for parking? And is it safe?

Yes. There are two restaurants in the main entrance. We parked in the one across the street from the entrance and paid 2000 colones ($4 for the day).

6. Q: Food and Lodging: Can I do it round trip?

Yes, you can, especially if you are staying in La Fortuna.

Also, the area offers places to stay and explore the area more. At the same time, the community in the surrounding areas benefits from the tourist activity.

If you decide to stay, it will give you the chance to get to the park earlier and enjoy more of the wildlife.

In the high season, they have a limit of 400 people on the trail, so sometimes you might have to wait.

7. Q: Color of the river: Does the weather affect the color of the river?

Yes, it affects it and changes it to a brownish color. For that reason, we recommend checking the official Facebook page of the National Park to double-check if the park will be open or  the color of the water and if is worth it to go.

Facebook Page: Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

Schedule: 8:00 am until 2:00 pm for admission. People can stay in the park until 5:00 pm.

Prices:

  • $15 foreign adults

To conclude, I would like to add the last question that I asked Adriana that day at the ranger station.

Because even with the magic of this place, it is important to not ignore the CHALLENGES that places like Rio Celeste face every day that we don’t even notice. Superheroes like volunteers, rangers (only 5 for such a big area) and the local community that depends on tourism fight every day against these issues.

8. Q: Can you mention the main issues that the National Park has to deal with?

  • Hunting
  • Forest Fires
  • Lack of resources for the maintenance of the trail. Volunteers are planning for this year to add more concrete to the trail.
  • In Adriana’s personal opinion, the bigger problem for the park is the Illegal deforestation because, as she says: “A tree that took years to grow, and is the house of many animals is not easy to repair that damage”

In conclusion, this hike is 100% recommended. Rio Celeste is a place where you will recharge your energy and feel a peace in your soul. 

I want also leave space to reflect more than the pictures the impact that you do when you visit a place like Rio Celeste. You are supporting nature, and boosting the local economy with your footprint and watching the light-blue water.

Thanks for reading !!! 

References:

  1. Volcán Tenorio, Parques Nacionales – Fronteras Naturales, ISBN 978-9930-9463-4-3, Luciano Capelli y Yazmín Ross, Printed, October, 2014
  2. Científicos de la UCR revelan misterio de río, Universidad de Costa Rica, https://www.ucr.ac.cr/noticias/2013/09/10/cientificos-de-la-ucr-revelan-misterio-de-rio.html, Manrique Vindas Segura Periodista Oficina de Divulgación e Información [email protected] and Lidiette Guerrero Portilla Periodista Oficina de Divulgación e Información [email protected], September, 10th, 2013
  3. Chavarría González, A. (2018). Información oral, Área De Conservación Arenal Huetar Norte (ACAHN), Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio, Universidad de Costa Rica. Entrevistador: Ligia Morera, Explore Tikizia Blog.

Hiking Corcovado National Park from Sirena to Carate station

Ligia on April 24, 2018

After you travel to someplace … Have you ever felt it was a dream? Did I really go there?

Well, to me, Corcovado National Park feels like that sort of memory. I’m still processing that we’ve been there. Especially because you get to this stage of consciousness after immersing yourself in such a natural and wild environment. Corcovado National Park made my brain start working more harmoniously and helped me develop a better understanding of how tiny I am in front of this majesty of nature.

I would like to make this blog a sort of diary entry to remember those memories after our first visit to Corcovado National Park. But also, the purpose of this post is to give you an idea of the hiking that we did from Sirena Ranger Station to Carate.

Rodrigo and I decided to give ourselves a different hiking challenge every year. Check our 2017 challenge to Chirripo. Corcovado was our 2018 challenge.

Friday, February 2nd… It takes some effort to get there

We left San Ramon early that day and drove to Dominical.

We had met a Dutch couple who came to Costa Rica and met each other through Instagram, and they were looking to visit Corcovado National Park, so we decided to do this adventure together. So we picked them up in Dominical and had breakfast with them.

Then we drove for about an hour more to Sierpe, where we needed to catch the boat that would take the four of us to Drake Bay. Click here if you want to learn more.

We had a nice boat ride with a lot of nature on the river and the “bocana” (how locals call the part where the river mix with the ocean).

Upon our arrival in Drake Bay, we met a friend of Rodrigo and also our guide for our trip to Corcovado National Park: Elberth of Nativos Corcovado. Sigrid and Francois (the Dutch couple) checked into the rooms and we said goodbye until we started our adventure the next day.

Saturday, February 3rd… Day 1  in Corcovado National Park 

6:30 am: We made our way to the Beach in Drake Bay. There was a lot of enthusiasm in the environment from tourists and locals that provide services. We sailed for about one hour into the national park. Fortunately, the sea was calm. Once we were in the park, there was literally no infrastructure more than the Corcovado sign. Personally, I found that really nice.

So here we are with excitement ready to start exploring the jungle!

We had maybe 30 minutes walking when we found ourselves immersed in a trail where every step, Elberth was pointing out a new animal. We were able to see 3 of the 4 species of monkeys in Costa Rica:  howler monkeys, spider monkeys, and squirrel monkeys. They were very nice to see.

I hadn’t seen the “titis” (squirrel monkeys) since I was little. This species is the smallest in size in the country.

Because it was the mating season of many species, we saw a lot of birds singing and calling the attention of the females. We also saw monkey mommas with their babies. So cute!!!!

12:00 pm: It was hot and I was hungry (as always) … we walked toward La Sirena, one of the ranger stations in Corcovado National Park and the place where we would spend the night.

This ranger station is really in the middle of the jungle. After lunch and a short break, we went back to the park with the five of us.

Afternoon… 

One of the coolest parts of the second part of the hike was when the whole neighborhood started the alarm because there was a Puma in the area.

Howler monkeys screamed louder than ever, spider monkeys didn’t stop moving around …

My heart was beating faster because of the mix of feelings—on one hand, I want to see the puma, but on the other hand, I didn’t know what we would do if we faced him.

Still, our friend Puma sneaked out, but let me tell you, it was one of the coolest experiences just knowing that he was around.

Then it was time for dinner and bed since they shut down the power at the ranger station around 8:00 pm. They have Wi-Fi, but since were many people in the station the signal is pretty weak.

Sunday, February 4th… from Sirena to La Leona to Carate station

I’m a light sleeper, so I didn’t sleep too well that night (remember the number of noises: farts, snores, and people walking around. Yes, you share more than a room and the people’s sleep secrets).

A quick funny story is when an Italian couple was walking around the station. Apparently, a tour guide was camping outside of the station and his snores were beyond anything that I have heard, I swear!!!  The couple thought that it was an animal and they were telling me to be careful. I explained to them that the animal wasn’t exactly an animal. We all started cracking up.

Meanwhile, Rodrigo saw a tapir walking with a baby in front of the ranger station! I was so jealous!

5:30 am That morning we did an amazing trip. It was raining at the beginning and I didn’t tell anyone, but in a part when we had to cross a river, I was a little scared. I was thinking “Great. Crocodiles and sharks live in these waters. Oh well, I want adventure!”

Fortunately, everything is about attitude, and Elberth found a narrower space where we crossed the river without problems!

Tip: Light dry-fit clothes are very important for this hike.

The trail switches from the jungle to the beach and vice-versa. At the beach, we found many traces of a tapir. Finally, we saw it lying, pretty relaxed at the beach! It was my first time seeing a tapir in the wild.

“Salsipuedes” – Second part of the hike

It was around noon, the sun was pretty heavy, humidity was a real thing, but Elberth said we were close. So we were walking on the beach and rocks!

The beach was beautiful. The contrast of the green jungle and the blue ocean was magical. We saw 2 couples of scarlet macaws that danced for us, letting us take pretty nice pictures.

I felt the anteaters was one of the species that we were very lucky to see. We saw 3 of them on the whole trail.

1:00 pm: We got to La Leona Ranger station, where you sign up saying that you are leaving the park. The station has water and bathrooms. It’s perfect to eat a snack. I washed my tennis shoes from the sand but I wished I brought shoes more like sandals or “chacos”.

We chat with some other tourists who showed us  pictures of the Puma they saw. Well for us, not this time, but we were close.

Tip: Use shoes that are easy to wash and dry fast. Also, make sure to bring enough snacks for the whole trip.

We walked around 1 hour and a half more until we got to Carate. There was not a building there either but just a few places to buy some drinks!!!

At this point, all that I wanted was a Coke! It’s one of the few times that happened to me. So we cheer our drinks and check our 23 kilometers that our clocks marked, with a rewarding feeling of accomplishment!

We left Carate around 2:30 pm and got to Drake Bay around 6:30 pm. The total time it took us for the hike was 8 hours. We stopped a lot taking pictures, but apparently, we still did it in the average time.

We know that some people do the walk the opposite direction than we did. They leave Carate first then to go to Sirena and spend the night there and then go back to Carate and stay near the Puerto Jimenez area. So that’s another possibility for people who want to do the hike.

Final thoughts

I am definitely happy to share this experience with you. Thanks for reading! If you make it until here I just want you to know that I hope you can have many experiences in nature like the one in Corcovado National Park.

I realized while I was doing my research to go to Corcovado that only 1% of Costa Ricans have gone to this park. So we are glad to see the statistic and know that we were there.

At the same time, I know this won’t be my last time. There is so much more to explore there.

I want to end the blog with our Dutch friends’ thoughts about Corcovado National Park. They have traveled a lot around the world so I feel honored about what they said.

I will quote what Sigrid wrote in her blog, because it is so true:

Corcovado National Park is ultimately one of the most beautiful wildlife experiences we have ever experienced. You can see so many wild animals here and nature is so beautiful. Many people skip this park during a trip through Costa Rica, because it is so remote, but I can only say: Go! Do not miss this special place. You will have no regret!  – Sigrid, Mytravelecret

So, if you are planning to come to Costa Rica, there is an option to add to your itinerary!! Pura Vida!

Costa Rica Travel Costs & Prices Guide

Ligia on April 18, 2018

If you’re not informed about the prices in Costa Rica, you could be in for a surprise upon arrival. We don’t want you showing up unprepared and having to cancel plans because you’re worried about breaking the bank!

Costa Rica is an amazing, friendly tourist destination, but it’s also one of the most expensive countries in Central America.

Some people consider the country too expensive and are skeptical about finding anything cheap. But others consider Costa Rica a developing country and therefore a budget travel destination.

The reality is that everything depends on the kind of experience you’re looking for. I know that sounds cliche, but it’s true! So we have created this article about Costa Rican travel costs and prices as a guide!

Seasons (Dry and Rainy season)

In Costa Rica, we have two seasons that affect tourism and prices: the dry season and the rainy season.

The dry season is the high season for tourism, and it runs from December until the end of April. This is when the weather is best and there’s not much rain at all.

After that, prices drop as we enter the green season, more commonly known as the rainy season. This period goes from May until November, but for about the first and last month or so, the rain isn’t as consistent or heavy, as the season is transitioning.

So coming in May, June, October or November can still be a good idea if you’re hoping for more sunshine than rain.

The dry season is generally considered to be the best time of the year to visit Costa Rica. There’s lots of sunshine and it’s a good time to visit the rainforest. That being said, the dry season is also the most popular (and expensive) time to visit.

Costa Rica Travel Costs

Accommodation:

From hostels to resorts, Costa Rica has a lot of accommodation options to offer. To give you a better idea, let’s filter it into these 4 categories:

  1. Dorm Room/Hostel: You’ll find great prices on hostels, at around $10 – $20 per night in a shared room. Private rooms are between $30 – $70.
  2. Budget Room: For $80 – $120 per night, you’ll typically get a large bed with a thin mattress, standard furniture, a clean private bathroom, sometimes having hot water showers (depending on the area that you are staying, beaches has cold water).
  3. Deluxe Budget Room: $120 – $180 typically gets you a more spacious room, with 24-hour hot water, a more comfy mattress, television, breakfast included, hotels with pools and A/C.
  4. Deluxe Room: For $180 – $220 per night, you can get a nice room, usually still with some marks on the walls and not quite a sparkling bathroom, but with a proper mattress, more furniture, perhaps a desk, large television, air-conditioning and hotel staff that are significantly more attentive. We have all inclusive resorts that weill fit in this category.

Transportation:

This is such a complex topic, in the sense that Costa Rica offers a lot of options for all kind of budgets, but many options tend to offer very little information to help pick the right one for the destination.

  • Bus: By far the cheapest way to travel around the country. The range of prices vary between $4 – $16. For the main tourist destinations, there are usually direct buses from San José. However, schedules change all the time and you need to find the bus stop because they aren’t concentrated in one station.
  • Uber: Nowadays, this is the way the locals get around in San José. It’s easier and usually cheaper because you don’t have to pay the taxes and fees you normally would with a taxi. But they’re not as commonly found outside main hubs like San José.
  • Taxis: In small towns or short trips, their price is normal. They have a system with a meter that will tell you how much it costs for the distance traveled. Some of them have upgraded the payment method and provide the option to pay with cards.
  • Rent-a-Cars:  The amount of companies available for renting a car is kind of overwhelming. For us, it is the best way to have the freedom to explore the country. A 4×4 car is recommended so you can have the option to visit more places, considering the routes and the conditions of the roads.
    • Also, the price that you get on the website might be increased for the insurance that the rent-a-car company needs to add on top of the daily rate.
    • Some of them have the policy to require a temporary deposit on your credit card to guarantee any damage that needs to be charged later.

  • Private transportation: 

    This can be divided into two categories:

– Collective (“colectivo”):  The meaning of “colectivo” refers to a shared transportation. The total cost of the trip is split between the number of people. The shuttle companies use this a lot, and in some tourist destinations, we have used these to go from one place to the other. The disadvantage can be the limited schedules since they don’t always reach the minimum of people that they need to operate.

– Private: Hiring a driver is one of the more comfortable options, but not necessarily the most inexpensive one. The driver know where to go and can stop at your convenience. On the other hand, the prices vary from travel agencies or van owners, so you have to research well. We usually get two or three quotes before we commit to one driver.

  • Plane: Domestic flights aren’t the most frequent way of transportation for locals. Still, when you see the distance and the 20-minute flights, and the prices that range between $40-$160 each way (there may be additional fees), it doesn’t seem that crazy to consider.
    • Most of the flights leave from the International airport or another airport called Tobias Bolaños located in Pavas, San José. There are some tourist destinations that don’t have a landing track.

Activities:

Rodrigo and I have both worked as employees in tour desks (side note: we met each other in those desks). So we’ve selected the tours that got the most requests in our time there, so you can have an idea of the prices.

Shopping:

There are some random products that you always get on your trip, so the list below is to give a general idea of the prices here. Add a little extra when you are in a tourist town:

  • Souvenirs: From $2 earrings up to $1000 types of furniture that can be shipped to the States—just to give you an idea. Buying souvenirs is a great way to support locals as well hold onto small pieces of the experiences you had and the places you traveled!
  • Water bottles: Water is drinkable in most places throughout the country, although in many beach towns it’s still not recommended to drink the tap water. For a bottle of water, you can expect to pay around $1.50-$2.
  • Alcohol: A beer is about $3 – $5
  • Coffee: About $2 for cup of coffee
  • Chips (local ones): $2, though a bag of Doritos costs closer to $5. Everything that is imported will be substantially more expensive.
  • Shampoo and soap: Always will be more expensive $10 – $15

Tips on how to travel as locals do:

  • Ask locals what their favorite places to go are.
  • Find out the local holidays, and avoid traveling to the touristy places during those days. For one example, Easter is a big weekend here!
  • Buy groceries in a supermarket and avoid spending money in restaurants and touristy areas. Or eat in the local sodas where you see a lot of people. This is always a good sign.
  • If you are a student or a volunteer you can show your ID and some tour companies or other places will give you a discount.
  • Avoid using US dollars because of the exchange rate that you will get. The exchange rate that people use is usually 500 Colones per dollar and at the bank it is higher, so you lose a lit bit there. 

Costa Rica is such a beautiful country. But unfortunately, it’s not necessarily a cheap place to travel. Costa Rica is not like the many countries in Asia where the value of your money goes so much further and everything is ridiculously cheap. Or even like the other countries in Central America, where you’ll likely find much lower prices. Prices are very comparable to the U.S or Canada.

BUT Costa Rica is generally safer and more geared for tourists than the surrounding Central American countries.

And you can find ways to cut expenses and spend your money in places that have a good impact on the local economy!

If you have more questions or tips to add, let us know as we love to hear from you!

Thanks for reading!

References:

  • March 2018. Evaluation  of prices in websites like booking.com; doubletree3.hilton.com; www.marriott.com
  • March  2018, Evaluation of prices  website: https://www.adobecar.com; https://www.budget.com/en/home; https://www.sixt.com/car-rental/costa-rica

 

Corcovado National Park

Ligia on March 26, 2018

When you hear the word “jungle,” what goes through your head?

For me, Corcovado “jungle” sounds like: rivers with bull sharks, pumas, hot humidity, mosquitos, snakes, and awesome wildlife. It sounds like the most amazing place to understand and connect with nature.

Corcovado National Park was on my list for a long time. After listening to my parents’ stories from college years when my dad got lost in Corcovado, I was intrigued to see if it was as wild as they said.

And recently, the day to meet this legendary place had finally come. Rodrigo has already been here but also was happy to be back. We had arranged with a couple from Holland to do this adventure together, who also has a travel blog. You can check  @mytravelsecret (Everything is in Dutch :).

Corcovado National Park is famous as the park that hosts 2,5 % of the biodiversity of the world. According to our National System of conservation areas (SINAC for the letters in Spanish).

When I read this, I had to process it again. Corcovado is home to 50 percent of the country’s species and harbors—2,5% percent of the world’s biodiversity. That’s pretty intense!

 National Geographic has called the Osa Peninsula, the area where Corcovado National Park is, “the most biologically intense place on Earth.”

Getting there:

There are various access points to Corcovado National Park:

  • Sirena
  • La Leona
  • San Pedrillo
  • Los Patos
  • Los Planes

Corcovado National Park map

You can get there by air, car, bus or boat. However, this is the observations we got from the people who live in the area and their order of choices.

Airplane: It’s the easiest and fastest and most comfortable, but it is expensive.

Taxi Boat: The second choice, as it’s sometimes hard.

Car: it’s almost impossible to get through the rivers during the rainy season

Bus: There is a company called “Transportes Blanco” that travels daily from San José to Puerto Jimenez and vice-versa. If you want to go to Drake Bay you can take this bus, but you need to get off in “Rincon,” which is the main entrance to get to Drake Bay. 

From Rincon, you will take another bus. We have been told that the bus schedule is 11:30 am and 4:30 am.

Link (apparently you can buy the tickets online): Click here

When you book your accommodation in either Puerto Jimenez or Drake Bay, they can help you with travel arrangements and suggested routes or ways to explore the park. Also, tour operators are in the area and can help you with all the arrangements.

Seasons: Dry (January to April) Rainy (May to November) December is a transition month. I think you need to be brave enough to go in the rainy season.

In our case, we visited in February. We had the advice of our friends from Nativos Corcovado who suggested to explore the park in the following way:

  • Arrival Day 1: spend the night in Drake Bay
  • Day 2: take the boat and access the park through Sirena Station. Spend the night in Sirena station.
  • Day 3: Hike from Sirena – La Leona –  Carate and then go back to Drake Bay
  • Last Day 4: Recovery and explore Drake Bay area.

Also, I read that some people do a 3-day hike staying in Puerto Jimenez and starting in Carate -Leona-Sirena-Carate.

The boat ride from Drake Bay to Corcovado National Park

Boat is one of the most popular ways to get into the national park. We took the boat at 6:30 am at Drake Bay beach and it took us an hour to get to the entrance of Corcovado National Park. The cost per person was around $30.

The sea was calm and no one got sick. Although they advised that depending on the tides it could be bumpy. In the rainy season, they have to check the tides and some days they can’t access the park by boat.

Corcovado National Park: Reservation, certified guides and food regulations

One of the most common questions that I found on the web, is this one:

Hola,

I heard that you need a permit and also a guide in order to do any hiking in Corcovado National Park. In other words, you cannot go on your own at all. Does anyone know if this is true and how to go about getting a permit?

User from Tripadvisor, Feb 2, 2015, 7:42 PM

Reservations:

Since December 15, 2016, the reservation system changed and is split in a platform that can be a little confusing to the visitor. SINAC is in charge of National Park entrance, and the accommodations and food are managed by a local association called ADI that runs development projects in the area.

The answer is that the information is true: you do need a permit to hike in the park. How to go about getting the permit? ... well, there are many details that make the reservation process a little hectic even for us as locals going there for the first time. Plus, every traveler does things differently depending budget, physical condition and time they want to spend in the area.

However, the reasons for the permit system are understandable after accidents inside the park like the controversial case of Cody Dial—a 27-year-old student from the United States. (NatGeo also has a series about it). It was better to change the system. Plus, I am sure there were other factors that added to the decision.

You may be thinking this is exaggerated, but in any place that is full of wildlife like Corcovado, it’s better to be smart and respectful of nature. So we did our reservations with a tour operator, but you will find plenty of travel agents or hotels that will help.

On the other hand, I think the permit model is helping the local economy to benefit from tourism. I love to see the tour guides guiding people on the trails because that means there is a local family that is receiving an income.

So here is a chart that we want to share with you and might help you understand the dynamics and factors involved when you visit the area.

Still, if you feel that you want to make your reservation directly on your own, we are going to leave the information below about the entrance and the accommodation to the park. Take into consideration that you have to do it 30 days in advance to guarantee spaces. 

Local tour guide operators 

We found information online about two associations we would recommend as guides. Also, you can contact us and we can recommend the tour operator that we use and some contacts that we have in the area.

You can email and book directly with them in the following emails provided by ADI:                                              Association of Guides of Puerto Jiménez: – [email protected]
Association of Drake Bay Guides: – [email protected]

Accommodation:

I read reviews on TripAdvisor about Sirena Ranger station, and apparently, the upgrade is significantly better. The place is not a bad spot to be in the middle of the jungle. The shower was clean and the bunk beds had mosquito nets but … it was a little crowded and not so good for people who are light sleepers, mainly because of the noises (not wildlife noises, human noises: snores, farts, people moving). Oh yeah, I had a fun night!

The accommodation includes bunk beds with mosquito nets, sheets, and pillows.

The price per person is $30. There is no camping allowed.

Here is the link (Click here) to the consortium website where you can make the reservation for accommodation and food.

Food:

You are not allowed to bring your own food into the national park. The food was pretty good—no complaints. The food will offer vegetarian options, and you might ask for vegan options, as well.

MealPrice
Breakfast (6am-8am)$20 USD p.p
Kid´s Breakfast$10 USD p.p
Snacks (10am -11: 30 am) *$12 USD p.p
Lunch (12md- 1pm)$25 USD p.p
Kid´s Lunch$12.50 USD p.p
Dinner (6-7pm)$25 USD p.p
Kid´s Dinner$12.50 USD p.p

* The rate for children is established between 3 years and 12 years.

Entrance Fee to the park:

Rates in Sirena:

Admission adults:  $15
Admission children: $5

They don’t accept international wire transfers, so you have to do a deposit to their bank account when you get to the country. 

Here is the email address to make your reservation: [email protected]

To make reservations for the day, communicate to:  [email protected]

Phone: (506) 2735- 5036 – National Park Office

Link to SINAC website: Click here 

However, you can’t make reservations through the website.

Estimated expenses:

If you decided to do something similar as we did, here are our expenses for the trip. This will differ depending on the tour operator or the route that you pick.

The main purpose of this blog was more to provide information about reservations and the system to go to Corcovado National Park. We are going to talk more about trekking and wildlife in another post. There is so much to talk about Corcovado but the most important for us is to help you understand the system and share our experience. It definitely will be one of the highlight trips of 2018!

In conclusion, if you are a nature lover and enjoy your time getting wild, Corcovado National Park is the place for you. Corcovado is not for everybody, but since we’re wired to seek out comfort, why not include a trip like this to your bucket list and let comfort go!  

References

  • Arturo Mora (Personal communication, March 10th,2018) Staff from SINAC – ACOSA Office.
  • James Badilla (Personal communication, March 9th,2018) Staff from ADI Corcovado-Carate(Non-profit Association)
  • Cabinas Jimenez (consulted March 8th,2018) Corcovado National Park. Recovered from: http://www.cabinasjimenez.com/corcovado-national-park/
  • Sinac Official Website (consulted March 8th,2018) Área de Conservación Osa (ACOSA). Recovered from: http://www.sinac.go.cr/ES/ac/acosa
  • TripAdvisor (consulted March 7th,2018) Sirena Ranger Station. Recovered from: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g309281-d309769-Reviews-Sirena_Ranger_Station-Corcovado_National_Park_Osa_Peninsula_Province_of_Puntarenas.html
  • Ligia Morera (Personal Notes and Pictures, Trip Februrary 2018)

 

How to Get to Drake Bay or Corcovado through Sierpe

Ligia on March 18, 2018

If you are planning a trip to one of the coolest places in Costa Rica, Corcovado National Park, and by any chance are thinking to stay in Drake Bay as your “home base,” you will probably have to pass through Sierpe to get there.

We finally made this trip recently after many years having an invitation from Rodrigo’s friend Elbert, who is a tour guide from the area. They met when Rodrigo was studying to become a tour guide. But for various reasons, it has been a trip we postponed until this summer, when a couple we met through Instagram motivated us to go there.

We left San Ramon around 5:00 am that morning. For us, the route is a little different than someone coming from San José. Around 8:00 am, we were in Uvita, picking up our friend from @mytravelsecret, the couple of dutchies who explored Corcovado National Park with us.

After breakfast in Uvita, we got to Sierpe, and the boat was ready to leave at 11:30 am.

There are three ways to get to Drake Bay: by plane, by bus or car, and by boat. We are going to focus on the last two options.

Our friends recommended by boat since it was the dry season. Apparently, during the rainy season, the routes are not easy to access and the boats only leave in the morning for security and may also be difficult to access depending on the weather.

Getting there by bus:

There is a direct bus from San José to Sierpe through the bus company Tracopa. However, it’s not too fast—the bus won’t make it in time to take the afternoon boat. So people usually stay in Sierpe and take the boat the next day to Drake Bay.

Also, you can take the bus to Palmar Norte (with the same company—Tracopa) and from there take a taxi to Sierpe to catch the boat.

Getting directly to Drake Bay by bus: We haven’t done it in this way, but according to some information I found from a hostel in the area:

From San Jose, you can also arrive at the hostel by taking the 8am bus to Puerto Jimenez. Ask the driver to drop you off at La Palma de Osa. From the bakery at 4.30 pm, a collective bus will arrive which can drop you right at our door. The collectivo costs around $10 and takes 1.5 hours from La Palma….- Drake Bay Backpackers

Getting there by car:

If you decide to rent a car, you can make it all the way to Drake Bay. However, the routes will require a 4WD, and some parts are really difficult during the rainy season. Although, there is an option to leave the car in Sierpe

From San José: It’s around 280 km (174 miles) away from San José and around 4 and half hours drive until Sierpe.

Once you get to Sierpe town you have two options:

  •  Leave the car in a parking lot and take the boat to Drake Bay (Recommended)
  • Take the ferry (it’s a rustic ferry, nothing fancy) and continue with the car all the way through Drake Bay. You’ll have to follow the signs until Drake Bay and probably cross some rivers. So it’s definitely not recommended for the rainy season.

A tip for navigation: You don’t need to get a GPS with the rental car. You can download the app Waze. This makes it easier for you driving in Costa Rica. Google maps works too.

Is there a place to leave my car during my time in the park or Drake Bay?

Yes. There is a hotel in Sierpe called Oleaje Sereno next to La Perla restaurant. They offer parking if you want to leave your car. You will see a sign called Donde Jorge. Following the main route all the way down to Sierpe, you will see the big signs.

The hotel offers the service of the parking lot. The cost per day is ¢3500 ($7). They will give you a ticket that you will have to show in order to pay and get the car back.

We left the car keys in case they needed to move the car, and we paid at the end without problems. However, take all your valuable stuff with you and leave all the windows closed.

Make sure you get to Sierpe at least 30 minutes before your boat leaves.

Boat Schedule (Updated February 2018):

When we got there, a guy came and asked where we were going. He told us that we would pay them when we got to Drake Bay.

The cost for the boat was $15 or ¢8000 Colones approximately, and you pay directly to the captain.

Some hotels arrange the taxi boat for you and you just tell the men outside of the boats the name of the hotel.

If you have questions, there is a window place where they can guide you. You can wait at the restaurant that offers free Wi-Fi and also use the restrooms.

Boats during the dry season:

  • Sierpe to Drake bay: 11:30 am and 4:30 pm ($20)
  • Drake bay to Sierpe: 7:15 am and 2:30 pm

Rainy season:

The boat ride:

The four of us got into the boat and they put our luggage into the front part of the boat. You can keep your personal bag with you. The ride takes around an hour. The boats are small and can take around 15 people.

The first part of the boat ride was so beautiful. We were going through the canals with scenery full of mangroves. By the way, Sierpe has one of the biggest wetlands in the country that hosts the ecosystem of the larger mangrove in Costa Rica.

It’s beautiful! I got disconnected from everything as soon I jumped to the boat!

After 40 minutes, the adventure comes. As a local, I heard about “La bocanca,” the area where the ocean and the river connect each other, which can get really bumpy. So I will be honest: I was a little scared, but it’s fun.

No worries, the guys operating the boat are certified drivers and most of them grew up in the area.

They won’t do the service if the weather is bad, so just hold on!!!!

After this part, it is around 20 minutes more to Drake Bay. They might do few stops before depending on the hotels they are dropping off.

Our luggage didn’t get wet, but my clothes did! Make sure you wear sandals and probably shorts are not a bad idea! It gets a wet landing.

At the beach hotels, tour guides and locals wait for the arrival of the people. So finally, we saw Elbert and our journey in Drake Bay started.

Things to take into consideration:

  • If you feel seasick on boats, let the driver know and he will sit you in the back where it is usually recommended. Take medicine for it because gets really bumpy sometimes.
  • Wear sunscreen or a cap because, especially in the morning rides, you can get sunburned.
  • The downtown is small and has grocery stores and restaurants that accepted credit cards. Still, bring enough cash for your stay in Drake Bay because there are no ATM’s.
  • Items to bring during your time there: headlamps, sunscreen, footwear, sandals, insect repellent, poncho, and medicine.

Once you are there, enjoy the jungle, breathe the true essence of nature and enjoy the place with the 2.5 % of biodiversity of the world. If you need more information please let us know in the comments!

Visiting the Costa Rican Organic Coffee Farm That Welcomed George Clooney

Ligia on March 6, 2018

When I (Ligia) was growing up, my family learned the hard way to be more mindful about what we put in our bodies. After my dad’s health problems, organic food became very important for our family. Although, of course, it can be quite challenging to eat EVERYTHING organic.

However, Rodrigo and I try to be more mindful about what we eat. We try to learn about the producers of the food we buy. About a year ago, we, along with my parents, joined an association of organic farmers’ families.

At those meetings, we met a family that has an interesting project producing organic coffee. They have a farm with 35 hectares (86 acres) of land, called Finca Edgar Fernandez, surrounded by peace, nature, and life.

Fernández Family – Piedades Sur, San Ramón

Let me introduce you to Edgar Fernández, his wife Maria Elia, and his two children: Viviana and Richard (They are in their 20’s, so not children anymore :).

Together, they have been hard at work, growing coffee their entire lives, as it has been a tradition of the family for generations.

From an early age, he (I like calling him Don Edgar or Mr. Edgar in English) grew up as an agriculture farmer and didn’t have the opportunity to finish school.

Hard work and consistency have been the best words to describe him.

In his earlier years, Don Edgar produced coffee in the traditional way using a lot of pesticides.

Coffee farmers thought in the past that producing organic was nearly impossible. Mainly because of fungus diseases like “Ojo de Gallo” and “Roya”.

However, Don Edgar decided to get more knowledge through a program from the Coffee Institute of Costa Rica, and learn how to create systems and produce organic coffee.

Finca Edgar Fernandez – Costa Rican Organic Coffee Producers

After Don Edgar adopted organic practices for producing coffee, the approach turned him and his family into an example to others. Eventually, it led to them being taken by Nesspreso to Switzerland in 2013!

In 2006, they became part of a program of sustainability for families and small farmers, who evaluated farms and reviewed the way they do things.

After this process, they received support and more information to improve the practices of the sustainable program. They also explained how thankful they are for the training in accountability to see if they were generating income or loss from their coffee production.

Then, in 2012, they got the news that an important visitor was interested in learning about the way they produce coffee and their sustainable lifestyle. Well, he turned out to be George Clooney!!!

For them, it was such an honor to have him there and to share their practices with him.

My favorite part of the story is when the school soccer field was used as the landing space for Clooney´s helicopter. Maria Elia laughs, saying that everyone was in shock seeing the helicopter and ran out of the house in their pajamas.

She didn’t realize who he was until 15 minutes later when her son told her!

Why did they decide on this lifestyle?

When you walk around the property, you find more than just the organic coffee. You will see all different varieties of organic fruits and vegetables growing that the family produces.

They have a Biodigester to produce their own gas, and their tap water is all connected to a cycle that gets filtered and recycled for their gardens.

Don Edgar says they always had the desire to learn and live in harmony with the environment.

Here I’ve quoted some words from him that have stuck in my head:

“We are administrators of the natural resources that God provided to us, such as food and good quality of life… if we don’t take care of nature, we lose more because nature works in this way: if you take care of her (nature) she will take care of you. I protect it and she always gave enough to live a good life. I don’t need much in life.” – Edgar Fernandez

Hearing his deep understanding of nature and his passion for producing sustainably and responsibly for our planet is truly inspiring.

Rural Tourism

The Fernandez family’s organic coffee production also led to an exciting new undertaking: tourism. They began receiving requests to provide tours for people who are interested in learning more about Costa Rican organic coffee production.

They started the tour program back in 2006, and since then, many people from Europe and other countries around the world have come to learn the process behind the organic coffee bean.

So this year, Explore Tikizia decided to organize a group of volunteers and friends to let them try out a different kind of coffee tour.

We had a great time! It feels more like visiting a family house than a super fancy tour, but still, we learned a lot.

The family would love to get more visitors so they can keep investing in their organic farm, using the extra income they make from the tours.

They are learning more every day, and we are willing to create a partnership with them to promote more this kind of tour.

Things you can see on the farm:

  • Biogas: The family produces their own gas to cook. They send the feces from 2 pigs through a system that later gets decomposed by bacteria, and then the gas from it is sent to the kitchen.
  • Organic compost: To make a better use of the kitchen scraps, they produce their own compost with a Japanese technique that is called Bokashi. The fermentation process is anaerobic. That means it is kept in a container that locks out air during the process. The micro-organisms break down the constituents of the food waste until they are effectively pickled.

  • Organic crops: They have a small greenhouse where they produce lettuce, onions, carrots and other vegetables without chemicals for their own consumption.

When they produce more than what they need, they will share with their neighbors, trying to keep the value of cooperation.

  • Bio – Garden: They learned how to do a better job with the tap water from their house. In the tour, you can learn about the system they use to treat their water. They even have fish in their water, which is cleaned by plants that provide oxygen to the water.
  • Trapiche:  The most recent investment of the family has been building a “trapiche.” The closest translation is “sugar mill.” They are trying to maintain the organic traditions for the production of sugar. For this part of the tour, some preparation will be required, and the minimum group must have 15 or more people.

Coffee Tour: 

On the tour, you will learn the whole coffee production process from the bean stage to the warm cup in your hand. You’ll also learn about common diseases the plants face and other interesting information.

  • The tour doesn’t have a lot of facilities like the biggest coffee tours in the country, but what makes this tour unique is they are a small producer with a big network. They produce the quality of a coffee like Nespresso but have decided to produce organically. Your money will go straight to support the family!

Prices:

All prices are per-person. You can pay in $ or colones to the currency exchange. No credit cards, only cash.

  • Solo Coffee Tour: $10
  • Coffee Tour + “Gallo” (tortillas with cheese): $15
  • The Coffee Tour + Lunch: $20
  • Coffee Tour + Lunch + “Trapiche”(Sugar mill):  $30 *Minimum 15 people

The coffee tour takes around 2 hours, but they are flexible if people want to stay longer and learn more.

Directions:

Where? El Carmen, Piedades Sur, San Ramón de Alajuela

How to get there? 

By Car: If you are coming from San José:

  • Get to downtown San Ramón (from the entrance drive on the main road until behind the church)
  • ⇐ Turn left and keep driving to San Pedro area
  • ⇑Pass the University of Costa Rica until you reach another intersection
  • ⇒Take a right— You are driving to Piedades Sur area, so you can follow the signs until you get to the small center of Piedades Sur
  • ⇐Turn left at the high school of Piedades Sur
  • ⇑ Drive two more kilometers until you see a bridge
  • ⇒Turn to right on a small unpaved street and continue for about 2 kilometers
  • At the right hand is the house and the property of “Finca Edgar Fernandez”

Or you can keep it simple by following Waze or Google Maps 😉

By bus: If you’re coming from San José, take the bus to San Ramón to the bus stop called “Parada de Puntarenas” or “Empresarios Unidos.” The ride takes an hour and a half, depending on traffic.

Once you are in San Ramon, the local bus stop is just less than a block away. From there, the bus leaves to Piedades Sur.

         Reference: http://www.mipueblocr.com/

The high school is the last stop on the bus, which is where you get off. You can arrange in advance to be picked up there by one member of the family or take a taxi from there. There are “informal taxis,” according to María Elia, which people from the community use frequently.

Private transportation: As locals ourselves, we can help you to arrange this. We have contacts who can definitely help you get there without the process of figuring out Costa Rican addresses and routes.

Contact information:

Maria Elia Fernandez (Don Edgar’s wife)

Note: She only speaks Spanish, but her daughter speaks fluent English. We can help you to set up the visit in case you need help.

Phone: 2445- 8337

Facebook: Finca Edgar Fernandez 

Email: [email protected]

Tesoro Escondido – Costa Rica Waterfall

Ligia on February 17, 2018

Can you imagine owning a huge, natural property of various terrains and landscapes, surrounded by mountains, with an otherworldly BLUE waterfall, all in your backyard? Well, this isn’t so far-fetched here in Costa Rica.

Meet the Cubero family, who own and protect a property rich in water resources, including the beautiful Tesoro Escondido (Translated: “Hidden Treasure”) waterfall located in the area of Bajos del Toro, Sarchí. It is similar to Rio Celeste Waterfall National Park, but even closer to San José.

The waterfall itself has become a trend for “Ticos” to visit within the last few years. It began when the Cubero family who owns the waterfall was motivated to create a tourist destination for visitors to the area, after many, many years of it remaining private and unknown to the world.

They had some visitors who created a video that went viral in Costa Rica, and boom! Their whole family became part of an unexpectedly successful adventure in tourism with this magical land, kept secret until now.

Since I began seeing this video of the “new” blue waterfall to visit on social media, and had some friends who visited it tell me about it, I was curious to visit this Hidden Treasure.

So together, with a friend from Boston, it was the perfect excuse to visit jungle waterfalls in Costa Rica.

About Bajos del Toro

From the top of the hill, the town of Bajos del Toro is like a small, colorful village—very picturesque! If you are looking for a little piece of Costa Rican life where everyone knows everyone, then look no further!

This village of 275 people surrounded by rivers (full name: Bajos del Toro Amarillo) is a rural idyll. The town has a church, some small restaurants (sodas), a school and lots of nature and water.

There are at least 3 other fantastic waterfalls that you can visit in the area.

A family story behind the blue waterfall

When we visited Tesoro Escondido Waterfall, the family restaurant was open, and I was able to speak with a woman named Rosemary. One of the nicest things about Costa Rica is the people and their friendliness, so I had a long, great chat with Rosemary, who is one of the 13 family members involved in the business.

“We have siblings, cousins, nieces and nephews that are working to keep the project going—at the beginning, some of them without payment” Rosemary told me.

The property belongs to the family, who inherited it from their father. They never imagined making a living from tourism because the main purpose of the place all along had been for cattle and other agriculture production. Since it is located next to the Poas Volcano, the waterfall has experienced different changes in the color of the water, making the vivid blue the most attractive one, though the sulfur and other minerals (and depending on the season and circumstances), all cause changes in its color fairly often.

Scientific studies of Tesoro Escondido waterfall tell us the minerals and sediments from the volcano produce the variations of the color. Scientists also closely monitor the different levels of the water to guarantee whether it is safe to visit or not, especially during raining season.

Rosemary and some of her other family we met were so incredibly friendly. And this is definitely one of the best things about Tesoro Escondido: you feel like more than just a tourist, but rather a family friend who has the blessing to visit and also witness the value of a family working together, which is one of the kinds of projects that we most highly recommend.

Getting to Tesoro Escondido Waterfall:

Distance from San Jose: 1 hour 40 minutes, 65 kilometers (40.8 miles). The route is incredibly scenic and at times daunting, as you weave along a road that clings precariously to the face of the often cloud-shrouded mountains.

By car: Renting or having a 4WD car is not necessary for visiting this area. Bajos del Toro is accessible for small cars or any other type.

However, it’s important to keep in mind that the route turns narrow in some parts. Driving carefully is important.

Also, driving from San Jose to Bajos del Toro can be a little complicated if there is not any guidance. So, we always recommend the navigation app Waze. Downloading and using it will likely save you some time.

By entering the name: “Tesoro Escondido Catarata” in the search bar of the app, it will give you an approximate time and distance from where you are.

And, of course, another great option is Google Maps, which has most of the same features as Waze, though not all.

By private transportation:  This is another option that people consider because many people don’t like to drive in Costa Rican routes. Many people prefer to hire someone who can drive them. This is a great idea too, especially if you have kids or a big family.

By bus: Apparently, to get there by bus you will have to take it from Sarchí and stay in the area.

Or it’s possible to take a taxi from Sarchí to Bajos del Toro for around ₡12,000 ($25) total.

One of the people in charge suggested that anyone can contact him and he might be able to help with transportation. (However, keep in mind that he only speaks Spanish). Contact Info: (506) 8570-5434 Oscar Cubero (He is one of the brothers of the family)

General Information:

Schedule: Monday through Sunday 8:00 am through 5:00 pm

Costs (updated January 2018):

  • Entrance Fee:  ₡5000 (About $10)
  • Parking lot: Yes ₡1500 (About $3)
  • Camping Area: Yes ₡5000 per camping tent.

*Bring all the cash you need, as we didn’t see any ATMs or banks.

Difficulty: Easy (though getting to the main waterfall might not be recommended for handicapped or elderly)

Facilities: Rustic showers, restrooms, a restaurant in the entrance (open only during weekends).

Important things to take into consideration:

  • During raining season (May – Nov)
    • They recommend wearing rubber boots. They can rent them to those who want them. I personally find them slippery, so you could also use tennis shoes that you don‘t mind getting dirty.
    • They don‘t recommend swimsuits or white clothes.
    • You need to be willing to get dirty if you go during the raining season. MUD is a thing!
    • If you see it starting to get cloudy or beginning to rain, you should leave from the waterfall area.
  • You can swim in the waterfall! It’s cold, but there were patches where the sunlight was more direct for longer periods that were warmer.
  • There are some pools closer to the entrance that you can also swim in.
  • After walking through the open field, when you follow the path to the left, there are two smaller waterfalls.
  • The family restaurant near the parking lot is only open on weekends. You can expect to pay around $6 for a lunch.
  • Another plus to this place is that they allow pets!!!

Tesoro Escondido is an amazing place where you will fall in love with the mountain views, the waterfalls, and the Cubero family! So if you come to Costa Rica, take the time to visit this Hidden Treasure! We highly recommend it!!!

Costa Rica Currency – A Guide for First-Time Travelers

Ligia on February 11, 2018

Costa Rica Currency

If you are traveling to Costa Rica, you need to know that the currency is colones (₡). The name of the currency came in 1896 in honor of Cristobal Colón (Christopher Columbus).

Cocoa was our first currency, used back in the pre-Columbian time. After that, we called our currency pesos, and later it became colones, its current name.

You can use US dollars almost everywhere in Costa Rica. It is rare that someone says no. However, even if you pay in dollars, you will receive your change in colones.

Travel tip: When a price is given in dollars, it could be a little more expensive than when it is charged in colones. So even when it is more work, people sometimes prefer to change dollars and pay in colones. Also, it’s important to know that most of the time supermarkets or commercial business (like souvenirs, restaurants or others) won’t accept $50 or $100 dollars bill.

The currency exchange rate fluctuates every day. In recent years, the value of $1 USD is usually around ₡500 up to ₡575.

For real-time currency exchange rates, you can use this website: Banco Central Website

Also, we recommend you download an app that helps you to do the conversion so you make sure people are doing the right exchange rate for you. People have recommended using this app: XE Currency Apps

So doing a little math, for example: $20 x 571= ₡ 11,420. Money in Costa Rica will make you feel rich since you will hear figures in the thousands all the time 🙂 .

Bills and Coins of Costa Rica Currency

Costa Rican bills are really colorful. People like the fact that we have wildlife images on every denomination. Also, our coins are organized by size according to the value. The smallest is our ₡5 colones and the biggest is ₡500.

₡ Bills

The “new family” of bills, as they are called, represent the natural ecosystems of the country. The Central Bank of Costa Rica mentioned: “They are a singular sample of the natural wealth that has placed Costa Rica on the world map as a country in which biodiversity and interest in nature is part of their identity.” Click on each bill to know what ecosystem they represent, also the approximate amount they represent in dollars (based on $1 being ₡500).

  • 50,000: $100 – Tropical Rainforest – the Osa Peninsula and Coco Island
  • 20,000: $40 – Páramo – Volcanoes and hills
  • 10,000: $20- Rainforest – Central and South Pacific, Northern Zone and the Caribbean
  • 5,000: $10 – Mangrove – Coastal zones of the Caribbean and the Pacific
  • 2,000: $4 – Coral reef – Coastal areas of the Caribbean and the Pacific
  • 1,000: $2 – Dry Forest – North Pacific side of the country

₡ Coins

  • 500
  • 100
  • 50
  • 25
  • 10
  • 5

Banks and ATMs in Costa Rica 

The banking system in Costa Rica works with national (state) banks and private banks. In general, the banking system in Costa Rica is good, but national banks usually are crowed.

Around the 15th and 30th of every month, banks are more crowded because people receive their paycheck on those days. Keep this in mind when you have to visit the bank. If you only use the ATMs, you will not be bothered by this.

ATMs are everywhere. In the main tourist areas, you will see the main branches of banks (BCR, Banco Nacional, Banco Popular).

Our Recommended Trick to Handle Costa Rica Currency

When you are arriving at the airport, you will see the currency exchange house. However, most people prefer to wait because the currency exchange rate you will get at the airport is not that great, so you get less money.

So what we recommend is 1) Avoid changing money at the airport. Wait until you go to an ATM or change it at your hotel. It’s even better if you can change it in the bank. 2) Change a small amount in case you need to pay a taxi or something that you can only pay in colones.

If you are coming for 2 weeks, you can change a bigger amount that you estimate will cover your expenses. If you don’t have time to go to the bank, you can do one transaction at the ATM. Remember that your credit or debit card will usually charge you a commission for this.

In tiny towns or rural areas, most of the places only accept cash. If you are planning to visit small areas, it is always important to carry some cash—preferrably small amounts.

ATMs also have been used to hide chips that can still your personal information, so make sure to review the card entrance. If you don’t feel sure, just try a different one.

To summarize, if you don’t want to be hit by the currency exchange as much, try to exchange a bigger amount and later try to pay with card or colones so at the end you don’t end your trip with a bunch of colones that later you will have to convert back to dollars.

 

Reference:

  • Museo del Banco Central- Search date: Jan, 20th, 2017. Nueva Familia de Billetes https://museosdelbancocentral.org/exhibitions/exhibiciones-anteriores/nueva-familia-de-billetes